Khorezm

Overview

Khorezm sits in the far north-west of Uzbekistan, where the Amu Darya spreads into irrigated fields before reaching the desert. Most visitors come for Khiva, whose inner town, Itchan Kala, keeps its mud-brick walls, madrasas, minarets and palaces in one compact, walkable area.

Urgench is the modern capital and the transport hub, with the airport and the main bus and train connections. Khiva lies a short drive to the south-west, and the ruined fortresses of neighbouring Karakalpakstan are within day-trip range.

History

Khwarazm was a settled oasis long before the Arab conquest, with its own kings, script and fortified farmsteads. In the Middle Ages it produced scholars such as al-Khwarizmi and al-Biruni, and in the early 13th century it was the core of the Khwarazmshah state until the Mongol invasion.

Khiva became the capital of a khanate in the 17th century. Much of what stands inside its walls today dates from the 18th to the early 20th century. The khanate came under Russian protection in 1873, and after 1920 the territory passed through the short-lived Khorezm People's Soviet Republic into Soviet Uzbekistan.

Getting there

Urgench International Airport has regular flights from Tashkent and some international routes. From the airport, Khiva is a short taxi ride.

By rail, Khiva has its own station just outside the old town. Afrosiyob high-speed trains now run through to Khiva, and slower day and overnight trains connect the region with Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara. Check current schedules and book ahead in season.

By road, the route from Bukhara crosses the Kyzylkum desert and takes most of a day by car. Shared taxis and private drivers also link Urgench with Nukus and the rest of Karakalpakstan.

Getting around

Itchan Kala is best seen on foot; its lanes are short, and most monuments are within a few minutes of each other. The streets of Dishan Kala, the outer town, are also walkable from the gates.

Between Khiva and Urgench, use a taxi or a shared taxi. For the desert fortresses across the river in Karakalpakstan, hire a driver for the day; public transport there is sparse.

When to go

April to early June and September to October are the most comfortable months, with warm days and cool evenings. Summer is very hot and dry, so plan sightseeing for the early morning and late afternoon.

Winter is cold and quiet. Some cafes and craft shops close, but the monuments stay open and there are few other visitors.

Food

Khorezm cooking has its own dishes. Shivit oshi is a plate of green noodles made with dill, served with a meat and vegetable stew and yoghurt. Tukhum barak are small dumplings filled with egg, boiled and served with butter or sour milk.

Local plov is cooked with plenty of carrots and is usually less oily than in other regions. Fried fish from the river and lakes also appears on menus, and in summer the oasis melons are worth trying.

Crafts

Khiva is known for carved wooden columns and doors, and workshops in Itchan Kala still carve elm and walnut by hand. You can also see silk carpets being woven on traditional looms, with patterns drawn from the tiles of the town's monuments.

Other local crafts include glazed ceramics, embroidery and the tall woolly chugurma hats. Lazgi, the Khorezm dance, is often performed in the evenings; it is on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage.

Good to know

Entry to many Itchan Kala monuments is covered by a combined ticket sold at the gates; climbing minarets and some museums may cost extra. Keep your ticket with you, as it is checked at each site.

Carry cash, since smaller shops and guesthouses may not take cards. Dress modestly when entering working mosques and shrines, and ask before photographing people.